|Sparkplug to transom with
Zenoah should be close to 460mm (transom is the vertical part of the back
of the boat).
Remove the pullstart from the motor and remove the 3 countersunk screws
which fix the big aluminium plate to the motor. The screws may be
tough to remove. Take out both screws from the red coil and loosely fit
the coil relocator using the same screws. Turn the flywheel until the
magnets are on the opposite side to the coil ( magnets are the shiny metal
parts on the outside of the flywheel). Push the coil away from the
flywheel and put a piece of thin card between the coil and flwheel. Press
down on the red coil and tighten the 2 screws and then remove the
cardboard. This will set the correct airgap between the coil and flywheel.
Fix the motor mount brackets to the engine and fit the throttle bellcrank
and/or bracket to the front of the motor as shown in the pictures.
Fit the pullstart using the M4 screws in the motor mount kit. Before
fitting the pullstart make sure the screws do not bottom out. If they do
then use some shorter screws or washers under the heads of the bolts. Bolt
the rubbers to the brackets using the nuts and washers provided. The motor
mount and rubbers will then fit between the wooden rails. Fit the coupling to
The strut and rudder should now be mounted on the
transom of the boat in the position shown in the drawing and
Drill a hole for the proptube in the ‘V’ of the transom and elongate
it upwards with a file so that the strut height can be varied. After first
tests to find the best strut height/propeller the
tube exit through the transom can be with silicone sealer although
many people leave this hole open.
Fit the tube is the next job . The tube should run along inside the bottom
of the boat and it should make a gentle curve up to the motor.
The tube will bend without kinking if bent carefully. Cut
the prop tube to length so that it is about 10 to 15mm from the coupling
but pushed into the strut as far as possible. The tube should run along
the bottom of the hull from the transom and then be curved upward to slide
into the coupling. The front end of the
tube near the engine must be supported. A T-bar can be used or a piece of
carbon sheet or 6mm plywood can be slid over the front of the tube and it
must be epoxied in place. Cut the flexi to length, remembering to leave a gap of 5 to 6mm (not less
than 5mm) between thrust washer and the strut. Do not cut the flexi too
short, because it has to go inside the coupling as far as possible.
To be sure of correct alignment, the flexi
should slide smoothly into the coupling.
Fix the hatch down using GA8 hatch fasteners or similar at
the rear. At the front of the hatch, attach a flat plate of aluminim or
plywood that will slide under the deck. 2 steel rods could also be used
The radio box can be fibreglassed in place or fixed to
the rails with brackets. Take care to seal any holes in the radio box with
cyano, epoxy or silicone (preferably cyano or epoxy). A standard size
metal geared high torque rudder servo of at least 9kg but preferably 13 kg
torque should be fitted on its side on a strong servo mount of aluminium
or carbon angle. The throttle servo can be any standard or high speed
standard size or small size. Use a 5 cell Nimh or nicad pack for the
Rudder on the Lynx is a twin pickup type. One pickup is used
just for the engine and the second pickup is for exhaust manifold
and tuned pipe.
Turn fins should be fitted at 90
degrees to the hull bottom on each side as close to the outside edge as
possible. Make sure the brackets and turn fin are very strong. Movement in
this area will affect the turning of the hull.
The flexi shaft MUST be removed and greased
after every days running. Use a suitable flexishaft grease.
Only use balanced / sharpened propellers.
Take care to range check
the radio before use.
For Zenoahs and other petrol engines use
1/4" flexi with 1/4" stubshaft. With the kit supplied prop the
boat will be capable of 50 to 57 mph depending upon engine spec.. For highest speed buy one of our
special modded propshop props. To attain the highest speeds will take some
time in adjustment of strut or stinger height and angle. If you are racing
the boat then keep checking this website page as I will be producing additional
or replacement items to aid boat stability and speed and will provide full
trimming and running instructions.