Sparkplug to transom with
Zenoah should be close to 460mm (transom is the vertical part of the back
of the boat). Fit the engine to the complete rubber mount assembly and
position it where shown but do not fix in place yet. Fit the coupling to
the motor. The Strut MUST be fitted at the position shown in the top right
drawing. Check the drawing above for the position of the tube through the
transom. Using Zenoah engines the propshaft should be offset to the right
(starboard) by 2 to 3mm as shown on the drawing. DO NOT use an angled
strut or angle the strut with packing under the brackets. It should be
parallel to the keel when looking from underneath the boat. Drill an
oversize hole for the proptube in the ‘V’ of the transom. After first
tests the seal the
tube exit through the transom with silicone tube or silicone sealer. Cut
the prop tube to length so that it is about 10 to 15mm from the coupling
but pushed into the strut as far as possible. The tube should run along
the bottom of the hull from the transom and then be curved upward to slide
into the coupling. The tube should slide inside a piece of the next size
bigger tube (KS 11/32) of a length of around 100mm. This short tube
should be epoxied to the hull after the tube is lined up so that the
centre of this tube is approx 200to 250mm from the transom. The front end of the
tube near the engine must be supported. A T-bar can be used or a piece of
carbon sheet or 6mm plywood can be slid over the front of the tube and it
must be epoxied in place. Cut the flexi to length, remembering to leave a gap of 5 to 6mm (not less
than 5mm) between thrust washer and the strut. Do not cut the flexi too
short, because it has to go inside the coupling as far as possible. The
collet in the coupling may be closed up, if so then open each slit with a
knife blade or something similar. When the collet coupling is tightened
onto the shaft, use a lot of force. The flexi
should slide smoothly into the coupling, to be sure of correct alignment.
Fix the hatch down using GA8 hatch fasteners or similar at
the rear. At the front of the hatch, attach a flat plate of aluminim or
plywood that will slide under the deck. 2 steel rods could also be
used. The radio box can be fibreglassed in place or fixed to
the rails with brackets. Take care to seal any holes in the radio box with
cyano, epoxy or silicone (preferably cyano or epoxy). A standard size
metal geared high torque rudder servo of at least 9kg but preferably 13 kg
torque should be fitted on its side on a strong servo mount of aluminium
or carbon angle. The throttle servo can be any standard or high speed
standard size or small size. Use a 5 cell Nimh or nicad pack for the
receiver.
Rudder on the Lynx is a single pickup type. An extra
streamlined waterscoop is supplied which can be used for watersupply to
the exhaust flange although its not essential on the wrap to centre
manifolds. This waterpickup is fitted in the hull approx 10mm from the
transon and 15 to 20mm out from the centre V on the right side of the hull
(starboard). Cut a hole to size and fix in with epoxy or fibreglass paste.
Turn fins should be fitted at 90
degrees to the hull bottom on each side as close to the outside edge as
possible. Make sure the brackets and turn fin are very strong. Movement in
this area will affect the turning of the hull.
Trim tabs should not be necessary. Trim tabs will slow down any
boat. The trim of the hull can be altered by strut height or angle and
rudder position. The boat will be fastest with a strut but if a stinger is
used it is recommended not to use the larger stingers such as Top
Secret.
The flexi shaft MUST be removed and greased
after every days running. Mercury Quicksilver grease is popular but any
grease is sufficient.
Only use balanced / sharpened propellers.
Take care to range check
the radio before use.
For Zenoahs and other petrol engines use
1/4" flexi with 1/4" stubshaft. With the kit supplied prop the
boat will be capable of 55 to 57 mph. For highest speed buy one of our
special modded propshop props. To attain the highest speeds will take some
time in adjustment of strut or stinger height and angle. If you are racing
the boat then keep checking this website page as I will be producing additional
or replacement items to aid boat stability and speed and will provide full
trimming and running instructions.
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